06 Kalaw-Nyaungshwe

My idea was reaching the south of the Inle Lake avoiding the beaten track and I was delighted by the outcome. I spent some time early in the morning asking in several shops for a 29er spoke, being redirected from one place to other I ended up in a shop of a very friendly hindi guy that had it. I bought three and before leaving the hotel I installed the one missing in the front wheel. I was lucky as this track demanded a little more stress for the bicycle.

Till Aung Pan, nothing new, just the usual road, very fast as you lose some altitude. In Aung Pan I looked the best way to reach the south of Inle Lake and found in satellite view of google maps a small road that also appeared as a trail in the roadmap I had. I followed it up and I found myself in a very nice landscape of smooth hills.

The road turns dirt, then sandy, and you end up in kind of a natural park. That stretch is very lonely: you just meet some goat shepherd some time. Then, a very fast descent towards a well paved road that brings you to Inn Thein. There you will find some ancient stupas and enter, again, in contact with occidental tourist as this town should happen to be included in the boat tours.

I figured out how to reach the south of Inle Like just looking again in the satellite view of google maps and crossing fingers. From here on, it starts with an amusing trail among drenched rice fields. The trail gets narrower and narrower, and starts to cross channels over “single bamboo pole” bridges (be careful crossing wearing cleats and with the bike on one hand). It crossed very small villages where you will feel as fallen from outer space.

At a given point it turns into a real maze and you may need someone helping you to cross some channel with a boat (I luckily found a nice guy). Experiencing the real life of peasants greatly pays off.

Luckily enough you will manage to reach Phaung Daw Oo pagoda, invaded by swarms of tourist both local and occidental. Just seat at the stairs and wait someone asking if you need a lift or ask any longboat to pick you up to Nyaungshwe for a fee. I met a burmese family that gave me the ride and completely refused I pay anything. I even visited a couple of pagodas with them before heading north to Nyaungshwe, a most enjoyable trip with these friendly people.

At the village you will have no problem in finding accommodation and having a most decent dinner in a charming place.