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Travesía en el Lago Inari, de Inari a Partakko

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Trail stats

Distance
36.82 mi
Elevation gain
3 ft
Technical difficulty
Very difficult
Elevation loss
3 ft
Max elevation
526 ft
TrailRank 
59 5
Min elevation
335 ft
Trail type
One Way
Time
4 days 7 hours 18 minutes
Coordinates
5599
Uploaded
March 5, 2019
Recorded
March 2019
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  •   5 1 review
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near Inari, Lappi (Suomi)

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Review of the route in Adventoorer: Crossing in Inari Lake, from Inari to Partakko .

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It is the fourth time I come to Lapland, and the third in winter. I love this site. Anyone who likes nature (and the cold), here has to feel at ease by force. There are not many amenities, yes, but that is precisely part of the charm.

I come with an organized trip, of course. Although everything is quite controlled and civilization is not very far at any time, in winter there is usually no one in these areas, and anything can happen.

Until now, the routes that I had taken have been through natural parks (spectacular), going from cabin to cabin, but this time things will be somewhat different. It is an opening trip, it is the first time they have done it in the agency, and it will consist of a crossing with skis and pulkas through Lake Inari, from the town of Inari to that of Partakko. As they have not done it before, they do not know very well how this is going to turn out, or if the distance set is going to be too short or too long. We will see it as we go.

Before I start, I already expect a different trip to the ones I have done previously in Lapland. Going through snowy forests is a joy, but since this time I am going to go through the middle of a lake, I imagine it will be much more monotonous. I prefer to take it as something that has a different charm.

So here we are, at the edge of the frozen lake. I hope it is very cold ... Although with the cold it is, I do not think it will break at any time. In addition, we are going to follow snowmobile tracks, which are extremely heavy. If they pass, we are not going to sink.

One of the bad things about going in a group (there are many bad things) is that you go at the pace of the slowest. Wearing a pulka is not complicated, even if you have never put on skis. In five minutes you handle yourself perfectly. But the journey is long, and in the end the fatigue is noticeable, and the pace is increasingly slow. In addition, coexistence between people who do not know each other is not always the most desirable. Anyway, the usual.

But at the moment things have just begun and everything is going well. It's cool, but when you're moving you don't notice anything at all. T-shirt, lining and gore, and nothing else is necessary. From time to time we stop to drink or eat something, and then the low temperature is noticeable.

The first day we covered just over seven kilometers. We have not started too early, and between one thing and another, there has not been time to advance further. In addition, you have to stop about an hour or so before the sun sets, which is not too late, to set up the tent. The nine of us are going to sleep in a big tent, and setting it up is a bit of a hassle.

The process is always the same. When the time comes we approach the shore of the lake. We get out of the water to what is noticeable to be land, choose a suitable site and begin to flatten it. With skis or snowshoes we try to level the snow, squashing it as much as we can, so that the tent sits well. But no matter how much we press it, when mounting it, it always steps where it should not be, holes remain and holes are formed. After all, it is all snowy and it is impossible for it to be completely well, so when we lie down, someone always gets a hole.

The difference between sleeping in tents or in cabins is abysmal. Until now I had always slept in cabins (without equipment, but a luxury), and from day one I miss them a lot. For starters, you have to stop long before dark to ride it, wasting time. Also, it is a very uncomfortable place to sleep. The cabins have either bunk beds, or a raised space to sleep, a platform. No holes ... And everyone has a place to sleep comfortably. Fitting nine of us into the tent is a daily Tetris exercise. We ride on top of each other, we don't fit well ... Rest is quite complicated.

On the other hand, that causes us not to have as much freedom as if we were in a cabin. At bedtime, there is no choice but to go all to the bag at the same time, to fit in properly. Going in later, with everyone already in place, would have been crazy. In the cabin it was possible to stay outside, wait to see the auroras, or do anything inside, where there was always at least one table, and lie down at any time without disturbing anyone.

But that's the way things are, and I was expecting all this, so I took it on the good side and tried to enjoy everything.

If assembling the tent is a hassle, taking it apart is the same. Every day we take less time, but even so we have a good time with this topic. But we had a laugh, really.

The second day starts badly. The weight is shared between all of us. It is intended to be more or less equitable, but there are things that weigh more. There are spare skis, gasoline for cooking, the store ... Then there is the food and equipment for each, apart from personal luggage. The guide and his companion carry a little more weight, and since the guide knows me well and knows that I always collaborate in everything without complaining, what a good man I am, he also gives me something else and I carry the store. Actually in the pulka the weight is carried more than well, and there is not much difference between a little more or a little less.

The fact is that when the food is distributed there is a bag that stays on the ground without anyone picking it up, and although I already suspect who it is, humm, here everyone makes the longui and the bag stays there. It's another bad thing about traveling in a group with people you don't know. There is always a face that slips away as much as it can, especially on trips like this, where collaboration is assumed on the part of everyone.

In the end I grab the bag and stuff it into my pulka. And when I start to advance, I notice that the weight that I carry is enormous and that it is very difficult for me to advance. I am not very savvy, I have to admit, because it is not the first time I have worn pulkas, and I should have smelled what is happening, but I am struck with the happy bag. A bag more or less does not make any appreciable difference in weight, but I attribute the problem to that and nothing else.

I am a half hour or three quarters suffering like never dragging that. I'm lagging behind and I start to get pissed off bad thing. I am having such a hard time that I even think about turning around, because I will be unable to continue like this for several more days.

Seeing the problems I have, a colleague offers to change his pulka with me. As soon as I get hooked on hers I almost fly off how light it is. Instead, he is not able to move mine. There I finally realize that something is wrong with him. Better late than never. I turn it over and see that a hanging rope has got underneath and is dragging along the belly of the pulka. That is the same as carrying an anchor.

Well, matter settled, I feel pretty silly though. It should have been obvious to me from the beginning that something strange was going on that had nothing to do with the damn bag. Of course, I have to be a mule if I have been able to carry the pulka for so long in that way.

Now things are going much better, and the day passes without major incidents. Of course, we traveled less distance than the previous day, despite spending more time on the move.

We camped next to an elevation (an island, really) sacred to the Inuit.

The next day we try to get our batteries back, because we are a bit late and Partakko is still a long way off. This time we managed to cover more distance, but we did not go too far. There is a small mistake on a signpost and we pull in the wrong direction, so at one point we have to turn around and retrace the path. We lose about four kilometers. The route is marked with fine stakes, but sometimes it is quite foggy and it is not quite visible.

The next day we did manage to advance further. The feeling is strange. The landscape is practically white. Only in the distance you can see a darker line of trees that breaks the monotony, but it is inevitable to have the feeling that we are not moving from the site. No matter how much we walk, it is as if we will never get anywhere. I consult the gps just to be sure I am traveling some distance.

Last camp. Tomorrow you have to arrive yes or yes. Yesterday we traveled about twelve kilometers, and today we have to do twenty-three. It is going to be complicated. We have the advantage that we can walk more, because tonight we sleep in a cabin and we do not have to stop before to pitch the tent, but what is clear is that we are going to arrive at night, and that it will be very cold. In general it is not very noticeable. During the day, on the move, he gets along well, apart from the moments of stopping to eat, when he feels more. When we stop for the night, we hardly ever leave the store, and with the petrol hormones we cook with, it heats up right away.

We get up earlier and leave as soon as possible. You can tell that we are going to reach a town, because we are overtaken by a snowmobile, which at least leaves us some trail. These past days we have not had any and have had to open it.

Advance the day. There is a long way to go and the light begins to diminish. It gives the feeling that we are entering a gulf. In the background, far away, it seems that you can see the line of trees closing. But no matter how time passes, we do not have the feeling of approaching her. On the left we are closer to the edge of the lake, and from time to time a car is seen passing by the coastal road.

It is getting dark, and you begin to see lights from cabins or houses in the town, which is very scattered, like everything around here. But there is still a long way to go, and the cold begins to tighten. To top it all, the front is turning off right now, and I'm not like to start looking for other batteries. Taking off your mittens now can be a problem, and with the lights of others you can go well. We must be less than thirty below zero.

I'm not worried, because it looks like we're getting somewhere, but I really want to get into the cabin sauna. I lose track of time a little. I always have the feeling that we have almost reached the trees, but we never really do.

After an eternity of progress, we are finally in a small cove. We have reached Partakko, and what is better, the owner of the cabin has come to find us with a flashlight, to show us where to get out of the lake. The cabin is close to the shore and we got there right away.

To the head sauna, to warm up ...

The journey is hard. The cold and the lack of comforts take their toll throughout the days. But if all this is for you, it is very enjoyable. Of course, the day to day is much less varied than going through the forests, and the eternal hours moving between the white of the snow and the white of the sky can be mentally exhausting. But it is encouraging to think that in the end you always get to a sauna.

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Waypoints

PictographIntersection Altitude 397 ft
Photo ofAtajo Photo ofAtajo Photo ofAtajo

Atajo

Atajo

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 397 ft
Photo ofCuarto campamento Photo ofCuarto campamento Photo ofCuarto campamento

Cuarto campamento

Cuarto campamento

PictographMountain hut Altitude 413 ft
Photo ofInari Photo ofInari Photo ofInari

Inari

Inari

PictographMountain hut Altitude 417 ft
Photo ofPartakko Photo ofPartakko Photo ofPartakko

Partakko

Partakko

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 395 ft
Photo ofPrimer campamento Photo ofPrimer campamento Photo ofPrimer campamento

Primer campamento

Primer campamento

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 408 ft

Segundo campamento

Segundo campamento

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 381 ft

Tercer campamento

Tercer campamento

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