Cambrian Way Part 2: Storey Arms to Ponterwyd
near Cantref, Wales (United Kingdom)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
From the Storey Arms on the main A470 road the Cambrian Way continues over pathless moors to reach Glyntawe; a village with a few houses and two pubs by old limestone quarries. Nearby are the extensive Dan yr Ogof caves, where there is a campsite. After Glyntawe the trail follows a ridge with several summits. A steep drop and cliffs on the north east side of the ridge provides commanding views (when you are not caught in the clouds). One of the summits is Fan Brycheiniog, at 802 metres a "Nuttall", one of the many 2000 foot plus peaks the Cambrian Way crosses. Loosing height, the route almost reaches the village of Llandeusant, before heading across lower hills and woodland to Llandovery. On the way is the village of Myddfai with a welcome café in its visitor centre.
After the old market town of Llandovery (a good place to resupply with food) the path continues up the valley of the River Towy and the smaller isolated, attractive Doethie valley, leading to the Ty'n-y-cornel hostel, the most remote hostel in Wales. Beyond the hostel the route is over pathless, rough, boggy, tiring ground, until some forest, oak woods and Strata Florida. The latter was once a monastery dating from the 13th century, now it lies in ruins. A pleasant walk on roads and paths then takes you up to the Teifi lakes, and the Claerddu bothy. Unusually for bothies there is the luxury of a flush toilet as well as a propane stove.
After more rough ground, forest, and an arch built to remember King George III's jubilee, the Cambrian Way visits Devil's bridge, where for a small fee you can see four bridges built on top of each other and a long series of waterfalls. After climbing down and up a steep, wooded valley with a narrow gauge railway line, the track passes old lead mines, slopes covered with heather, and then this part of the Cambrian Way leaves you at the small village of Ponterwyd, which has the George Borrow hotel and a small shop at the petrol station to stock up on supplies.
The GPX track used here is derived from ones published by the Cambrian Way trust http://www.cambrianway.org.uk/. Part 1 of the route is at https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cambrian-way-part-1-cardiff-castle-to-the-storey-arms-49958726. For a blog of my walk along the trail see https://johnponcambrian.blogspot.com/2020/09/talybont-road-to-dan-yr-ogof-on.html.
Waypoints
Claerddu bothy
This is a former farmhouse with a kitchen including a propane stove and a flush toilet. Water is spring fed and boiling is advised. There are sleeping platforms upstairs beneath the roof, or you can camp outside. It is maintained by the Elan Valley Trust. Located a little way north of the single track tarmac road, follow the route of the Cambrian Way to find it.
Correct Gate
As the route is across a pathless moor this waymark is to help you know where to aim for.
Dan -yr-Ogof Campsite
This is the location of the Dan-yr-Ogof campsite https://brecon-beacons-camping-and-caravanning.co.uk/. It is close to the Dan-yr-Ogof show caves that are worth a visit, where there is also a coffee shop and other attractions. There are two pubs up the road to the north and at least one other campsite is nearby.
Devil's bridge and waterfalls
The Devils bridge consists of four bridges built on top of each other, the lowest was built by the Devil. For a fee you can walk down the steps and see it. By walking down rather more steps though oak woodland, a series of waterfalls, cascading down over a significant height can be seen. Finally there is a long climb back up to the road. Nearby is a hotel serving food and refreshments, a chocolate shop and a narrow gauge railway station.
Drovers B and B in Llandovery
Llandovery is a pleasant market town with shops, pubs and accommodation, it is also on the train line. The next town of any size is Barmouth, so worthwhile stocking up with supplies here.
Gate location
I have included this waymark as in pathless areas it is helpful to know where the gates are.
Ponterwyd and the George Barrow hotel
Ponterwyd is a small village, with a small shop at the petrol station and the George Borrow hotel, named after a nineteenth century writer.
Metal ladder stile
I have waymarked this stile as in this pathless area it is helpful to know where the stiles are to avoid having to climb over a fence, potentially damaging it and so causing issues for farmers.
Myddfai Visitor centre and café
This is a welcome place to stop for a coffee and cake. While here you can read the posters about the contribution of medieval herbalists from the village. There is also a gift shop.
Old Mines
This is an area of lead mining of which spoil heaps and some holes in the ground remain.
Removable piece of fence
I think this is intended to be a section of removable fence to avoid having to climb over. Unfortunately the knots were so intricate that I was unable to distangle them, so I had to climb over the fence anyway.
Riverside Campsite
This looked a pretty nice campsite beside the river. It was however too early for me to stop https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/campsites/uk/carmarthenshire/llandovery/rhandirmwyn-camping-and-caravanning-club-site/
Strata Florida abbey ruins
Strat Florida was founded as a Cistercian monastery in the 13th century and was a stronghold of Welsh nationalism. Now in ruins which can be visited for a fee.
Toilets and trailer selling food and drink
A welcome place to buy a coffee and a roll with bacon, sausage and/or egg in it.
Tyn y cornel hostel
The remotest hostel in Wales operated by the Elan Valley Trust. It was closed when I passed due to the Covid 19 pandemic but there is a shelter for passing walkers with an emergency phone and facilities for making a cuppa.
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