Cambrian Way Part 3: Ponterwyd to Conwy
near Pont-erwyd, Wales (United Kingdom)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
Leaving the village of Ponterwyd, after stocking up with snacks at the shop by the petrol station, the first day's walk is across Pumlumon (Plynlimon in English). One of the higher ranges in Wales it is more a group of moorland mountains of similar height than an individual summit. On the following day there is more rough walking on moorland upland with views and visits to the nearby valleys plus forest, farmland and a wind farm with a welcome walk on a gravel track. Several abandoned quarries are on the Cambrian Way route, I camped at one at Dinas Mawddy after a welcome meal at the Red Lion pub. After this village the route follows a ridge up and down several summits with excellent views finally reaching a pass beyond which the mountain of Cadair Idris rises resplendent before you. The Cambrian Way climbs the side of the mountain by what must be the steepest route, but from the summit of this shapely mountain much of Wales is visible, from Pembrokeshire to the Llyn peninsula to Shropshire. Barmouth is a Victorian sea side resort, a chance for a rest before climbing and follow a long ridge into an area of Snowdonia with few roads or visitors. After climbing numerous summits the walker is faced with the rough, tough mountains of Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr, struggling through clumps of heather and rocks on steep slopes. Eventually the slabs of rock give way to gentler tracks as the trail passes near the waters of Llyn Trawsfynydd on a cycle track, and the nearby Nuclear Power Station, long since shut down.
After the village of Maentwrog you pass by the Ffestiniog railway, a narrow gauge mineral line resurrected by enthusiasts, and a pumped storage scheme, used to supply electricity when demand spikes. More summits need to be climbed before reaching Beddgelert, a village named after a faithful but misunderstood dog, after which Snowdown, the highest mountain in Wales is climbed. After the relative solitude of the Rhinogau, the crowds on Snowdon are something of a shock. The ranges of the Gyderau and Carneddau follow in quick succession, before a long ridge walk down to the end of the walk at the ancient town of Conwy.
The GPX track used here is derived from ones published by the Cambrian Way trust http://www.cambrianway.org.uk/. Part 2 of the route is at https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cambrian-way-part-2-storey-arms-to-ponterwyd-57364422. For a blog of my walk along the trail see https://johnponcambrian.blogspot.com/2020/09/ponterwyd-to-dylife-on-cambrian-way-day.html.
Waypoints
Arthog waterfalls
A series of cascades as a brook runs down a narrow, wooded valley beside the path.
Barmouth
Barmouth is a Victorian seaside resort, the beaches, Bed & Breakfasts, and chip shops a complete contrast to the rest of the Cambrian Way, but a good place to rest and resupply before the final section of the trek. The town is reached by crossing an old wooden railway viaduct across the estuary, a pleasure in itself.
Beddgelert
A busy town with pubs, restaurants, a shop and too much traffic for the small bridge.
Cadair Idris
One of the great mountains of Wales. See also https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cadair-idris-walk-along-minffordd-trail-26985248 for an alternate route up.
Carnedd Llewelyn
Second highest peak in Wales after Snowdon at 1064 metres it receives far fewer visitors. Stones have been piled up to make a shelter against the wind. One of the Carneddau it lies on a ridge with Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Fach and Carnedd Dafydd.
Cnicht
A summit sometimes called the Welsh Matterhorn, albeit a very small one. It does have a nice shape.
Conwy
Conwy (or Conway) is the northern end of the Cambrian Way and a popular tourist spot, thanks to a Norman Castle and attractive old streets. While there is a railway station, a few more trains stop at Llandudno junction, a half hour's walk away on the other side of the River Conwy.
Craig Ddrwg
One of the mountains in an area of much bare rock, the summit is called Clip.
Cwm Bychan campsite
There is a field by a lake with a few sheep where you can park and camp with an honesty box to pay, however no toilets or water supply. I was aiming to stay here, but after walking across the Rhinogau from Barmouth, I became too tired. Its a tough day. After making a few miss-steps I decided it safer to wild camp before I reached here.
End of concrete pipe
To avoid a wide stream walk to the right (east) of this point where the water flows through a concrete pipe
Gate
Aim for this gate
Glyder Fawr
This is the highest peak on the ridge which joins it to Glyder Fach. The ridge has a great deal of shattered grey rock and jagged boulders. The "cantilever", a slab of rock balanced on other rocks that you can stand on is by Glyder Fach.
Llyn Stwlan Pump Storage reservoir
Llyn Stwlan is the upper reservoir of a pumped storage hydroelectric power station. Water is pumped from the lower reservoir to this reservoir when there is spare electricity, then when demand for electricity suddenly rises, water is released from the upper reservoir, powering turbines which drive electric generators as it flows to the lower reservoir.
Maentwrog
Maentwrog is a small village where I lunched at the Grapes Hotel.
Pumlumon Fawr
Plumlumon or Plynlimon Fawr is the highest summit in a mountainous, moorland area, where the River Severn and River Wye, two major rivers, have their source.
Rhinog Fach
What of the rocky heather covered mountains with steep slopes you cross.
Rhosydd quarry
One of a number of old, abandoned quarries on the Cambrian Way, there is even a Snowdonia Slate Quarry trail (https://www.snowdoniaslatetrail.org/english.html). In these quarries there are spoil heaps of discarded stone, tramways, the remains of old stone built buildings, adits and rusting pieces of machinery.
Snowdon
Snowdown, the highest peak in England and Wales at 1085 metres, has a rocky peak, arêtes, cwms, and good paths up it. For the non walker there is a mountain railway and at the top there is a café.
Source of the River Severn
The River Severn is one of Britain's major rivers, rising in the Pynlimon mountains it flows east into England before turning south and west to reach the south east corner of Wales. Another long distance footpath the Severn Way follows the river.
The Brigands Inn
Handy Inn for some refreshments (also accommodation), there is a small shop at the nearby Petrol Station. Popular with middle aged Motor Bikers who race around this part of Wales.
The Red Lion
Lovely pub with food and accommodation is quiet village of Dinas Mawddy.
Trawsfynydd Nuclear Power Station
The two block houses of this nuclear power station are visible for many miles. Although it is no longer in use, last producing electricity in 1991, being a nuclear facility it will not be completely decommissioned before 2083.
Y Star inn, Dylife
A super little pub with food and accommodation. Does not seem much else in the village of Dylife.
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What a great adventure and report!