Carmarthenshire on the Wales Coast Path: Part 4
near Gowerton, Wales (United Kingdom)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
This part of the coast path is a walk around the estuaries of the rivers Loughor, Gwendraeth, Towy and Taf. After a mainly surfaced path from Gowerton to Pembrey Country Park, the trail heads inland across Welsh farmland, green pasture for sheep and cows, before a final section of classic coast walk from Pendine to Saundersfoot climbing up and down the old sea cliffs, with the ocean to your left. Towns and villages touched by the trail include the old industrial towns of Llanelli and Bury Town, the county town of Carmarthen, villages such as Laugharne with its connection to the poet Dylan Thomas, and the seaside town of Saundersfoot. Norman castles are common.
The previous section of coast path can be found at https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/gower-peninsula-on-wales-coast-path-part-3-67362544 .
Waypoints
Bury Port Harbour
Once a busy harbour, now a mooring for yachts, and a place to sit and enjoy a burger or crepe from the nearby stalls.
Ferryside
Once a Victorian seaside resort, these days its quieter but has a train station, café, shop and a sandy beach beside the River Towy.
Gowerton Train station
Gowerton Train Station was where I started the Carmarthenshire section of the Wales Coast Path, however there are also convenient stations en route at Llanelli, Bury Town, Ferryside, Kidwelly and Carmarthen. Gowerton also has a selection of shops.
Kidwelly Castle
Kidwelly Castle is a Norman construction guarding approaches from the Gwendreath estuary. Below the village of Kidwelly has a few shops and an old Quay once busy with boat traffic.
Laugharne
Laugharne (pronounced "Larn" with a long "a") is the village where the poet Dylan Thomas lived for a number of years and where he is buried with his wife. His writing shed is on the coast path, which follows his "Birthday Walk", along which verses from his birthday poem are written on signs. The poet is not the only attraction in Laugharne, there is a Norman Castle over looking the estuary, various tea shops and accommodation. Brown's Hotel is particularly recommended.
Llansteffan Tea Shop, beach and castle
Llansteffan is a village beside the estuary of the River Towy with an extensive beach. I enjoyed a coffee and cake from the tea shop beside the car park, there was also a stall selling Fish and Chips. A convenience store and other facilities can be found on the main street of the village (called High Street). On the hill above the town is another Norman Castle.
Loughor Castle
Only a few walls remain of Loughor Castle standing on a small hill beside the coast path.
North Dock Llanelli
Once a port for coal the North Dock is now an area of modern residential housing.
Pembrey Country Park
Pembrey Country Park includes a long beach, pine forest, car park, dry ski slope, café and toilets. At low tide an enormous expanse of sand is exposed. The facilities are all at the east end of the forest and beach, further west it is more remote. The main Wales Coast Path follows the coast, although various routes along the forest tracks are possible. Although the trees were planted on sand dunes, water accumulates on the low points on the forest tracks preventing easy passage.
Saundersfoot Railway Station
One of several train stations on this route.
Pendine
Pendine village, with its cafés is at the western end of Pendine Sands, a long beach once used to set break land speed records. Inside the Museum of Speed is "Babs", one of the cars, much restored, used in a land speed record attempt, an attempt that ended in a crash and the death of the driver. Much of the beach and the land behind is part of a Ministry of Defence firing range and is frequently closed see https://www.qinetiq.com/en/pendine/news-and-activities/advance-alert-service-and-weekly-forecast .
Saundersfoot
Saundersfoot is a popular tourist resort with a beach, cafés, restaurants and accommodation.
Sign pointed the wrong way?
Based on all the information I have, the sign here is partly pointed in the wrong direction.
Carmarthen
Carmarthen is a major town bridging the River Towy with all the usual facilities including a railway station, retail parks, hotels, shops and restaurants. In the centre of town are the remains of a Norman Castle.
St Clears
Although the Wales Coast Path does not go through the town of St Clears, a diversion may be desirable to access accommodation and supplies. It is an historic town, scene of the Rebecca Riots with earthworks from a Norman Castle.
Path is through drive of the house
A this location, as in a few others, the coast path takes an unexpected route down through someone's drive, elsewhere it goes through people's gardens. Always makes me feel I am trespassing!
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