Chepstow to Cardiff: Wales Coast Path Part 1

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Photo ofChepstow to Cardiff: Wales Coast Path Part 1

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John P

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Trail stats

Distance: 49.82 mi
Elevation gain: 600 ft
Technical difficulty: Easy
Elevation loss: 574 ft
Max elevation: 212 ft
TrailRank: 58
Min elevation: -137 ft
Trail type: One Way

Time: 14 days 8 hours 25 minutes
Coordinates: 5052
Uploaded: August 25, 2020
Recorded: August 2020

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near Tutshill, England (United Kingdom)

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Itinerary description

The Wales Coast path follows the entire coastline of Wales. The first (or last) section from Chepstow to Cardiff is not the most popular part of the route, but it has an atmosphere of solitude and peace as it follows the edge of the Severn Estuary beside a broad coastal plain. At high tide the silvery water stretches many miles to North Somerset in the grey distance, at low tide there are acres of mud flats and sand banks. Inland, cows graze on green fields across the coastal plain. Part of this section is also through the contrasting landscapes of Chepstow, Newport and Cardiff, bustling urban areas with historic sights, industry, and suburbs. As this part of the Wales Coast path parallels the railway, the path is easily be walked in daily sections, catching the train each day to and from Chepstow, Caldicott, Severn Tunnel Junction, Newport and/or Cardiff, all places where accommodation can be found. The route is pretty flat which some walkers might appreciate.
Ceramic tiles set in the walkway mark the start of the Wales Coast path in the historic town of Chepstow, beside the River Wye, close to the ends of two other long distance walks, the Wye Valley Walk and Offa's Dyke Path. Joining the Wales Coast Path to the Offa's Dyke path allows a complete circumnavigation of Wales. From Chepstow the path goes through the town's medieval walls and down through trees, suburbs and fields to the banks of the River Severn. For much of the section to Cardiff the route is along an embankment with water to the south and flat farmland to the north. The embankment is to prevent flooding which in past centuries has inundated the surrounding land (there is an inscription at Mary Magdalene Church in Goldcliff showing where the disastrous flood of 1609 reached). At this point the Severn is already very broad as it becomes renamed the Bristol Channel. On the first day out of Chepstow the view is dominated by the two, graceful Severn Bridges carrying traffic between England and Wales, an older suspension bridge and a newer cable stay bridge. Beneath ground level the railway crosses the Severn in a tunnel, there is a fascinating one room museum on its construction at Sudbrook, close to the pumping station that continuously pumps water out of the tunnel to stop it flooding (the water is then used in a nearby brewery).
Various signs claim that the several areas of wetlands beside the river are a haven for birds and wildfowl, although I have not been fortunate to see many. Possibly I should have spent more time at the Newport Wetlands, which the Wales Coast path bends around, and which includes a visitor centre and cafe. There are other cafes and tea shops on the route such as the tearoom at Goldcliff, the Waterloo and Lighthouse Inns, as well as in the main towns. Inevitably some of the walk is through the urban landscapes of Newport and Cardiff. Newport was a major industrial and port area in Victorian and Edwardian times, and the riverside area has been redeveloped into a pleasant riverside walk beside the Usk, but the star of the restoration is the transporter bridge, one of only a few in existence, which, when open, is on the Wales Coast path route. Through Cardiff the current route is still very industrial, passing places such as a steel works (which recycles scrap steel) and beaches strewn with old bricks, rounded by the sea over the years, and other urban debris. There is a diversion through suburbs to avoid this area should you wish to take it, but perhaps it just hides less pretty aspects of the city.

The next section of the trail can be found at https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cardiff-to-swansea-wales-coast-path-part-2-65564950 .

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Waypoints

Photo ofSecond Severn Crossing, now called Prince of Wales Bridge

Second Severn Crossing, now called Prince of Wales Bridge

This is the "new" cable stay bridge that carries the M4 motorway into Wales. This main route is now toll free.

Caldicott Castle

A Norman castle not far from the Coast Path

Cardiff Queen Railway Street

Chepstow Castle

Norman Castle on the banks of the Wye

Lighthouse Inn

The Lighthouse Inn is a pleasant place to stop beside the path, the Shipwreck Cafe attached to it is open until lunchtime, after which visit the Inn. Behind it there is a neat and tidy residential trailer park.

Mary Magdalene Church

This church in Goldcliff close to the trail dates from the 15th century. Inside is a brass plaque commemorating the great flood of 1609. https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/307350/details/st-mary-magdalenes-church-goldcliff

Newport Wetlands Visitor Centre

These wetlands were created in the 1990's in compensation fro the loss of habitat, such as it was, when the barrage across Cardiff Bay was built. The reed lined water is a habitat for many birds and insects. There is a visitor centre with a cafe and a squat lighthouse on the coast. https://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves-and-events/reserves-a-z/newport-wetlands/

Newport Railway Station

Newport Transporter Bridge

The Transporter bridge was completed in 1906 across the River Usk. One of only six still in operation, people and vehicles are transported across the river on a platform (called a gondola) suspended by cables from a high gantry. This type of bridge was chosen as it meant that tall ships could travel up the Usk to Newport docks. The docks have now moved downstream and other bridges have been built but the transporter bridge is maintained as a historical sight from Newport's past.

Saint Tewdric's Church

Saint Tewdric was a Celtic king who defeated the invading Saxons in battle but suffered a mortal blow in consequence. The church was built on the site of his death in the 6th century and was reconstructed by the Normans in the 13th century with later additions and restorations.

Severn Bridge

This is the original Severn bridge completed in 1966, a suspension bridge that cut many miles off the distance by road from Bristol to Cardiff, or avoided the use of a ferry that could only operate if the tide was high. It is actually two bridges, a smaller one of the River Wye and a longer span over the Severn. The suspension bridge over the Severn has a base designed like an aerofoil to keep the deck stable in high winds, an innovative feature at the time.

Severn Rail Tunnel Centre

This one room museum covers the history of the village of Sudbrook and the story of the construction of the Severn Railway Tunnel which opened in 1886 and through which the main line from Cardiff to London and the south west passes. Tunnelling was made difficult when an underground spring was encountered that was only controlled with great difficulty and bravery. To this day large quantities of water are pumped out of the tunnel to keep it in use.

Severn Tunnel Junction Railway station

Start of Diversion through Tremorfa

A temporary diversion through Tremorfa starts here. Unfortunately when I attempted it the signage was not comprehensive and I reverted to the original route which this GPX track follows. If you wish to follow the diversion see: https://www.walescoastpath.gov.uk/media/1331/cardiff-wcp-diversion.pdf?mode=pad&rnd=132064915550000000

Start of Wales Coast Path

The start of the Wales Coast Path is marked by a ceramic tiles on a path beside the River Wye.

Seawall tearooms

https://www.facebook.com/SeawallTearooms/

The Gatehouse

This is a Medieval gatehouse in the old town walls. Until the bypass was built it was a major bottleneck for traffic.

Tredegar House

Waterloo Inn

West Usk Lighthouse

The West Usk Lighthouse was built in 1821 and decommissioned in 1922. It is now a Bed and Breakfast.

World War 2 Section Post

A remnant of the Second World War this would have been a fortified machine gun post should the enemy come up the River Severn. A section post is more lightly protected than a pill box but gives a wider range of fire.

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