El Choro. La Cumbre to Chairo.

This epic trek passes through many of Bolivia’s ecological wonders in just 3 or 2 days. It is a lot of downhill, but take your time and enjoy the ride. I did it in two days and still felt like I had plenty of time to stop at places I wanted to and take in the grandeur of the landscape. This route has plenty of water so bring your filter and also plenty of camping spots along the way. The locals have made many areas for you to set up a tent (I attached a picture of the map located at the beginning of the trailhead). You’ll have to pay a fee of 20 BOB, but I met some people who camped and didn’t see anyone, therefore did not pay.

From La Paz. Near the Iglesia de San Francisco you will find collectivos heading to Terminal Minasa. It must say Minasa on the collectivo. You can also take a taxi to the terminal. Look for the buses going to Coroico once you get to Minasa and tell them you want to get dropped off at La Cumbre. From there it’s a 45min - 1 hr drive to La cumbre trailhead. I registered my name there but did not have to pay anything.

Depending on your fitness you reach the top of the pass in an hour or two. Take time here to give gifts to Pachamama and ask for protection and guidance. If that’s not your thing the views from here are worth all the extra time you have in your day.

Hike down the windy road which at times follows an old Incan road down to the valley. From the valley the road winds around the mountains until you get to a small town called Samaña Pampa. There is a registrar with a snack and drink stand. No one was there when I passed through but apparently they charge you 5 BOB. Would’ve happily paid but no one was there.

From here you pass a series a farms and you begin to see the ecosystem change before your eyes. Once past the towns the Yungas begin to emerge and the path narrows from a road to a single track trail for most of the rest of the hike.

Note: I did this in late May, I can’t imagine doing this trail in 2 days in the raining season. There were already plenty of wet sections of the trail in May. If you do this in the rainy season, prepare to be muddy and slow.

Eventually you dip down in elevation until the vegetation is thick and the water abundant. You begin to hear the roar of the Rio Chukura as you walk parallel to it for the rest of the day. The river is magical.

You can choose to camp at Challapampa, an epic spot near the river after a bridge crossing or continue on the route. There is a man who might try to charge you even if your not staying at his camp site. He didn’t charge me but he did charge someone behind me.

From there I continued on to Choro, a half way point in the trail, and camped right next to the river and not at the designated site just off the river. This was an amazing spot to swim and spend the night. The towering peaks sit above you as the sound of the river puts you to sleep.

Woke up early and got to it again. I thought this second part of the trail was harder, even though your lower in elevation. The trail was overgrown in some areas and I had to constantly duck my head under branches. Which is a pain when you’re carrying a full pack. Start early because it’s going to be hotter down here, but thankfully there’s still plenty of water. There’s an abundance of waterfalls and the most beautiful river crossing along this section of the trail. Truly magical.

This section has its far amount of ups and downs with a lot of switch backs along the way. Most people camp at Sandillani where the Japanese man once lived, but there are 5 or 6 amazing spots to camp along this section of the trail. Any village/camping area that has “Vista” in its name is worth spending the night at.

Apparently there’s a tienda at Sandillani but I once again saw no locals there and after a time just moved on.

From there I got down to Chairo by 3-330 and was lucky enough to join in on a taxi with two Israeli girls which were headed to Coroico. The taxi was 160 BOB. They also shuttle a collectivo from Chairo to Coroico but if your by yourself you may be waiting awhile bc they will wait until it’s full before they go.

From Coroico hop on a bus that takes 2 1/2 -3 hours back to La Paz. If you can hop on a newer bus for 30 BOB. It’s less crowded and faster. Cheers!

PS: If you’re thinking about bike packing this route I would not do it! There was a fellow American trying to bike pack and along the beginning was glorious for him, most the trail was hike a biking and somewhat miserable. You’ll enjoy this trail more by hiking it.