Gudbrandsdalsleden (Camino de San Olav/St. Olav's Way) 17: Engelshus (Dovre)-Fostkugu
near Dovre, Oppland fylke (Norge)
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For many, the most spectacular stage of the Gudbrandsdalsleden, as we entered the Dovrefjell national park in style. A challenge with a steep climb along about 13 kilometers to stay above 1200 meters. We leave behind the unforgettable Engelshus and by road in just 4 kilometers we reach the beautiful church of Dovre, where a stone of San Olav indicates that we are 250 kilometers from Nidaros. From there we can consider that the party begins in the form of ramps and continuous ascents initially asphalt. At kilometer 5.2 we arrive at Bergseng where the San Olav fountain is located, an event. It must be said that in this country the sources are a rarity, although paradoxically the water is of an excellent quality and can be drunk from practically any place, be it torrents, streams, rivers and so on. We continue the climb and towards the 7.6 pk we find the historic Budsjord farm, another of the historic pilgrim lodges along the way. A few meters before, where an indicator shows us the direction of the farm, we have definitely left the asphalt to enter tracks and then mountain.
The last track Budsjord we will leave to the pk 8.4 where an information panel indicated that we are going to enter the Dovrefjell, that Fokstugu will be the next accommodation, and warns us of the difficulties of the road, not only because of the unevenness but also because of the changing time that we can find. It is discouraged to start the tour after 14:00 and the possibility of an alternative route is offered through the town of Dombas. We finally enter the Dovrefjell with its characteristic vegetation that will accompany us for days. On pk 9.7, we pass through the Ståkån area and towards 11.4 a monolith tells us that we are in the Dovre national park. The pk 14.6 is one of the most singular points of the path of San Olav, since there is the Allmanroysa, a mound of stones that is also the highest point of the stage with its 1210 meters, which would be the equivalent of the Cross of Iron of the French Way to Santiago de Compostela. The final kilometers will be a journey through the solitary places that we have already begun to know between torrents, low scrub and dwarf birches. At the foot of the E6 road, we will arrive at the historic farm Fokstugu run by Laurits in the eleventh generation of his family, and his wife Christiane. The farm has a chapel or saelehus, and was built in 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson as a lodging for pilgrims on their way to Nidaros.
The last track Budsjord we will leave to the pk 8.4 where an information panel indicated that we are going to enter the Dovrefjell, that Fokstugu will be the next accommodation, and warns us of the difficulties of the road, not only because of the unevenness but also because of the changing time that we can find. It is discouraged to start the tour after 14:00 and the possibility of an alternative route is offered through the town of Dombas. We finally enter the Dovrefjell with its characteristic vegetation that will accompany us for days. On pk 9.7, we pass through the Ståkån area and towards 11.4 a monolith tells us that we are in the Dovre national park. The pk 14.6 is one of the most singular points of the path of San Olav, since there is the Allmanroysa, a mound of stones that is also the highest point of the stage with its 1210 meters, which would be the equivalent of the Cross of Iron of the French Way to Santiago de Compostela. The final kilometers will be a journey through the solitary places that we have already begun to know between torrents, low scrub and dwarf birches. At the foot of the E6 road, we will arrive at the historic farm Fokstugu run by Laurits in the eleventh generation of his family, and his wife Christiane. The farm has a chapel or saelehus, and was built in 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson as a lodging for pilgrims on their way to Nidaros.
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Buenas Dani. En primer lugar, mil gracias por la publicación de tu peregrinaje, estás siendo de enorme ayuda a mi pareja y a mí!!!!! De verdad.
Quería preguntarte, porque estoy organizando todo y soy un mar de dudas: el alojamiento en Fokstugu lo gestionaste con antelación o fuiste sin reserva alguna? En caso de reservar, por algún medio en concreto? Estoy hablando por teléfono con la anfitriona y por correo y no obtengo respuestas.
Enhorabuena por los pedazo de post y reitero mis agradecimientos Dani. Un saludo!
Hola, Javier! Me alegro de que te esté sirviendo de ayuda en la preparación de vuestra ruta. Si no habéis estado nunca por allí vais a flipar con ese camino 😉. En Fostkugu, como fuimos haciendo en todo el trayecto, llamamos con un par o tres de días de antelación. Qué recuerdos de ese sitio y todo lo que vivimos en él! En la zona del Dovrefjell hay que ir con más previsión que en el resto del trayecto, ya que hay menos alojamientos. Nosotros éramos tres y conforme se desarrollaba el peregrinaje íbamos calculando donde íbamos a llegar y como digo, un n par de días antes íbamos reservando. A veces el día anterior en el resto del tramo. Como te digo, el Dovrefjell es la zona más salvaje y menos poblada del recorrido y es mejor asegurarse. Si no te responden, prueba de contactar con el centro de peregrinos de la región y pregunta por si es que tienen cerrado y por los alojamientos alternativos:
Pilgrim center Dovrefjell
Mail: dovrefjell@pilegrimssenter.no
Telephone: ( 47) 911 43 651
En cada región te tienen un centro de peregrinos donde te informan sobre la zona que cubren 😉
Te recomiendo, si no lo estás haciendo ya, echarle un vistazo a la página https://pilegrimsleden.no, donde vas a poder encontrar mucha información. No dudes en preguntarme si tienes alguna duda y a parte de mis posts y los tracks te puedo ayudar en otra cosa, me puedes escribir si quieres a mi mail daniarkansas@gmail.com o sino, en los comentarios de las etapas de Wikiloc como prefieras 👌🏻