Jyrgalan, Ailampa lake, Boz Uchuk lakes, Boz Uchuk

Fantastic 5 days/4 nights trek. Easy access.

I've taken the 13h30 marshrutka 331 from Karakol to Jyrgalan. From there, I've done a quick visit to Destination Jyrgalan to inform about the passes (they told me there was no snow) and left immediately to start the trek.

I've started at about 16h and walked up as much as I could before getting dark. I've found a lovely place to camp, not far from the bifurcation to the pass I'd be taking in two days.

The next day, I've walked to the first Ailampa lake. There are lots of nomads on the way and the trail can even be done by car. It wasn't my favorite part.

I've done something really stupid: while walking close to the rivers, I've sunken my feet in the marshy terrain close to many of these creeks and rivers. My feet were wet. So, when came the moment to cross the most wide and violent river, as I didn't see immediately a place where to hop on stones to the other side, I've decided to just walk through it (I've estimated knee deep), since my feet were already wet.

Big mistake! One thing is to have feet and shoes a little wet. A completely other thing is having them soaking! Like drenched!

After enjoying the lake, I've decided to walk down to the bifurcation, close to where I had spent the night before.

I was walking slowly, because my heel had a wound from my trek to Ala-Kol lake and I didn't want to make it worse. I was also feeling my drenched shoes wouldn't do me any favors. Last summer, walking fast in soaked shoes for a very long day in volcanic Ambrym, the island of the lava lakes in Vanuatu (Pacific islands), I've lost 5 toenails due to blisters!

I've spent another night close to the bifurcation.

The next day, I've waited until my shoes were dry to resume my trek. I think it was about 10 am when I've broken camp. I was lucky with the weather, very sunny.

I've taken the bifurcation and started to walk up to the pass. I've met three horsemen on the way. Their dogs were very threatening, but the horsemen could control them.

I've stopped by a lovely waterfall to enjoy the view and drink water. Then I've continued as the climb became more serious.

I've passed by another horsemen. He was going in the opposite direction.

I've arrived at the most exquisite high valley. It was wide and green, its walls completely covered in blue flowers. The kind of beauty that takes your breath away.

I walked on this valley to reach the place where I'd climb right, to the pass.

There were no trails on this place. I've seen very little signs of trails and completely overgrown. But it's not a problem to walk.

The valley was so spectacular, I've considering staying there, but the temptation to do the pass was too great and I've climbed up.

The walk uphill was steep. No, really! Not like Ala-Kol pass, though. Much easier in comparison. Mind you, I did the Ala-Kol pass under a snow storm. It left... memories. Lol

From the pass, the views are just perfect!

I've descent on the other side. Very steep and lots of scree. Trekking poles are worth their weight for things like that.

I wanted to sleep on this descent to avoid sleeping on the busy valley below. But the creek was dry! I needed water. I was forced to go all the way down to the valley, knowing I wouldn't sleep there (too many cattle and dogs).

I've arrived at about 19h at the big valley where passes a road. I didn't like it! Lots of animals and dogs. I've signaled to a horsemen of one of the nomad camps on the other side of he raging river (impossible to cross it on foot and no bridge) and waited for him to finish milking some animals and come to fetch me. I've crossed with him, on his horse and gave him 100 som.

I had been told to give something like 50. But I was so late and I wanted to quit the valley immediately, and there were two horrible dogs on the other side of the river... I wasn't going to risk having to discuss price in those conditions. Mind you, they're kind and I think they'd do it for free, even.

On the other side, I've asked him to control the dogs time enough for me to run away. He did. From a little above, I've seen the same dogs fiercely biting a horse that wandered in "their" corner of the world.

In spite of being late and very thirst, I've climbed up. There was a trail up, but I've seen another dog wandering there and fear made me go straight up, about 100m from the creek. This creek was just coming down the mountain.

I've taken a wrong trail (it looked like a trail, but ended up going away from the creek i wanted to follow up, and in the middle of bushes).

I really wanted to stay beside the creek, so, when I thought the dog was past below and behind, I've made my way through the thick bushes to the creek. It was a very difficult 100m!

Unfortunately, close to the creek, more thick bushes. No way to camp there.

I didn't want to stop, because it was past sunset and it was getting late. I needed to find a place to set up my camp.

I've continued up through the night. It got really dark. I didn't use the torch of my phone to avoid attracting dogs. I'd feel the soil with my hand to see if it was soaked. The problem is that, many times, close to the creeks, the soil is engorged in water. Your feet even sink in it. Not possible to set up camp.

A lot higher, some one who was camping (sheppard I've seen the day after) must have heard me and tried to spot me with a big torch. I continued my way, weary of dogs. He had a campfire.

When I've lost sight of the campfire, I've found a dry place to set up my camp after crossing a creek. On the way, I had heard, but not seen, many horses running, probably afraid of me!

Even though I was exhausted, I wasn't unhappy to hike at night. Because of the starry sky. Gorgeous!

I was only unhappy about the cold. Brrrr.

Only while setting up my tent, did I use my torch (of my phone). It was quickly done and I've filtered some water to drink. Oh, so good! This was the third night of the trek.

It was so cold! I was happy to jump in the comfort of my sleeping bag. I was too tired to eat, but I want hungry, anyway. Exposure made me colder than usual.

The next day, I've decided to take it easy! I was almost on the Boz Uchuk pass! But! While enjoying the views and the beavers playing all around, I've seen sheep and goats coming up. Where there are sheepskin and goats there are... dogs!

I've quickly broke camp. But the sheep were on a mission! Luckily, they avoided me and went up a mountain wall behind, leading the barking dogs away. Or was it the opposite? Lol

I've finished more at ease. Them a horseman came to greet me. We've exchanged a few words, them I've left.

I could see him all the way to the pass. On the pass, I could see he had made a campfire high in the mountain.

The Boz-Uchuk pass is super easy.

After more walk up and down, I've arrived at the Boz-Uchuk lake, the first of three. There, I've met a couple of hikers. They were the first I've seen on this trail. We've talked, surrounded by curious cows. Them we've left separately for the next lake, the big one.

I like solitude and when I've reached the lake, I've gone for a spot far from them. It was a pity, before after about 30 min, I've seen them leaving and waking down. I think they didn't know there was a third, much more spectacular lake.

Anyway, I've made my way, no trail and quite steep, to the upper lake.

This was simply amazing! The lake was... how to put it into words???

I've decided to stay there, even though it was only about 15h30.

In complete solitude, I could enjoy the spectacular settings. It was mostly sunny and the sunset was incredible, with the mountains reflected on the water. One of the most beautiful views!

The night was cold, but I was comfy in my -5 C comfort temperate down sleeping bag.

All the time I was there, I could hear avalanches. I didn't see them, though. At moments, it was completely quiet. At moments, the wind was so strong, I wondered if my ultralight Chinese budget tent (740 g) would survive.

During the night, thundered, lightening and rain, but the rain wasn't too hard. The wind was more impressive. A fantastic night feeling the elements.

The next morning, I found a window of opportunity between two rain spells to pack up and go. It was oh, so cold!

As I've walked down, at the other side of the big lake, it was much easier than going up the day before (different side of big lake).

It also got drier, sunnier and I was soon shedding layers.

The walk down was easy and the valley quite agreeable. But long! By the time I've arrived on the first houses, my legs didn't want to walk anymore. Somewhere, by 15h30, a man offered a lift, which I've accepted. It was the end of my trek.

By the way, he works on the conservation of snow leopards. He's told me they estimate the snow leopard population at about 250-300.

I've made the gpx by hand, because I didn't take one on the way. I've used my favorite points on the map to trace it.

Anyway, where there are treks, they're obvious. Where there aren't, you'll just walk where it's possible to walk, where the grass is thinner.

Enjoy!