Kumano Kodo Nakaheshi #2
near Dōyukawa, Wakayama (Japan)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
To complete one of the branches of Kumano Kodo and achieve the Dual Pilgrim status was one of the goals of my trip to Japan.
This second section was much easier than the first, although it is still very much a trek in mountain ground with a slower progress that expected. The trail is very beautiful with a better ground to walk than in the first day... Plenty of shadow meaning that even in a very hot day is doable. And really hot it was. I do not recommend hiking in summer in Japan, in particular during an hot wave. The high temperatures combined with high humidity make the hikes really tough. But it was worth the effort.
Please note that this is a very long stage. If you plan to hike from Chikatsuyu to Hongu Taisha it will take 8-10 h depending on your step. Bear in mind that there are no accommodation at Hongu Taisha, you must stay at an Onsen town nearby, and there are few buses and only one taxi (that you may or not be fortunate enough to catch...) This means that you MUST arrive at Hongu Taisha bus stop before 5 pm (check the timetables at the website below). This is the reason why so many people, cut a few Km by bus in the morning to the end of the detour section, or slightly before, to make sure that they will arrive on time.
From Hongu Taisha to Yunomine is only 2,5 km but a 200 m climbing that at the end of the day will be extremely painful for most people... Do plan ahead to catch the bus.
An alternative plan can be completing the trail in 3 days, leaving the last section from Hosshinmon oji to Hongu Taisha for the morning of the last day. There is a bus close to Hosshinmon, but please check the timetables. They are very punctual but rather unfrequent.
For details and logistics you may resort to the official website
https://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/
but since this requires essentially a sleep over around Chikatsuyu it is not very difficult to do it yourself in booking. You may wish to stay the last night at one of the onsen towns around Hongu Taisha. The morning after you may wish to continue the trails to Nachi Taisha or take the bus back to Kii Tanabe or Shingu. All are easy options.
This second section was much easier than the first, although it is still very much a trek in mountain ground with a slower progress that expected. The trail is very beautiful with a better ground to walk than in the first day... Plenty of shadow meaning that even in a very hot day is doable. And really hot it was. I do not recommend hiking in summer in Japan, in particular during an hot wave. The high temperatures combined with high humidity make the hikes really tough. But it was worth the effort.
Please note that this is a very long stage. If you plan to hike from Chikatsuyu to Hongu Taisha it will take 8-10 h depending on your step. Bear in mind that there are no accommodation at Hongu Taisha, you must stay at an Onsen town nearby, and there are few buses and only one taxi (that you may or not be fortunate enough to catch...) This means that you MUST arrive at Hongu Taisha bus stop before 5 pm (check the timetables at the website below). This is the reason why so many people, cut a few Km by bus in the morning to the end of the detour section, or slightly before, to make sure that they will arrive on time.
From Hongu Taisha to Yunomine is only 2,5 km but a 200 m climbing that at the end of the day will be extremely painful for most people... Do plan ahead to catch the bus.
An alternative plan can be completing the trail in 3 days, leaving the last section from Hosshinmon oji to Hongu Taisha for the morning of the last day. There is a bus close to Hosshinmon, but please check the timetables. They are very punctual but rather unfrequent.
For details and logistics you may resort to the official website
https://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/
but since this requires essentially a sleep over around Chikatsuyu it is not very difficult to do it yourself in booking. You may wish to stay the last night at one of the onsen towns around Hongu Taisha. The morning after you may wish to continue the trails to Nachi Taisha or take the bus back to Kii Tanabe or Shingu. All are easy options.
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