Kyoto to Lake Biwa - Mt. Daimonji, Kyoto wilderness and 'almost' Mt. Hiei
near Keage, Kyoto (Japan)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
I've rated this track "difficult" due to the fact that there are a couple of sections that require walking through short sections of flooded road (up to the ankles), so make sure you're wearing waterproof footwear. These sections may dry up in the summer, but I couldn't say for sure.
Additionally, there is a VERY steep descent shortly after summiting Mt. Daimonji, requiring you to make good use of handholds and really digging your heels in. Track markers become almost inexistent in small segments and it may feel like you're winging it (I was) until the Trail Run markers start to show up.
Lastly, following this track requires paying close attention due to the constant shifting of marker types you'll be following. Just follow the track closely when in doubt and you'll be fine 😄👍
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I started rather late in the day, arriving at Keage station. Instead of heading straight for Nanzenji, I wasted about 30-odd minutes by heading for Himukai-Daijingu Shrine, which clearly wasn't leading me towards Mt. Daimonji, my first objective for today.
So I backtrack to Keage station, hit Record, and this time follow the path down and cross Keage Sosui Park. The park is very small and if you keep to your right you'll eventually make it to a beautiful but short walk along a small canal that'll lead you straight to Nanzenji temple.
The path is pretty straightforward; just follow the path left of Nanzenji, past the aqueduct and you'll eventually reach Komaga Falls (駒ヶ滝).
I forgot to take a picture but apparently this a certified spot for the practice of standing under the VERY strong stream of water, which falls from quite some height.
Since we'd had heavy rain just a couple of days ago, the water hits with real force, and there are signs in English asking to not do so naked and without the proper preparatory rituals (further research needed!).
The path winds up right of the waterfall, past a cool little cave shrine and here is where one must start paying close attention to available signage especially at intersections.
From here on out the path blends with the Kyoto trail leading you up and up towards Daimonji summit, with some impressive views of all of Kyoto and even Osaka off in the distance. There is a picnic area here with plenty of seating and 'tables' where about a dozen locals were enjoying the view and food they'd brought with them.
+++The next section is potentially the trickiest due the fact that it may feel like you're headed nowhere fast, but trust in the trail. From this point onwards I encountered very few people, and certainly not a single foreigner.+++
On the (very steep) way down, you'll do some river crossing and have to wade through some flooding sections of abandoned road until you eventually hit a newer section of road, complete with traffic. There is almost no pavement to speak of but there are some sections where you can step out of the way of traffic and eventually reach Fudo Onsen.
Follow the course of the river (there is no trail to speak of) for a few hundred metres and eventually you'll encounter some white Trail Run markers that follow a relatively obvious path up through the woods.
I'm relieved to find these because I really thought I was heading nowhere, but these happen to belong to a Mt. Hiei trail running event. Basically, I got lucky; because Mt. Hiei was my final destination for today's challenge.
Keep going and you'll eventually come to a relay station and an observation platform with some amazing views of Kyoto, Osaka, Yamashina Ward, Otsu and Lake Biwa. There are also a couple of vending machines in case you happen to be running low on fluids. Talk about convenient!
Follow the road for just a bit using the designated pedestrian path until you reach a massive tollgate with a nature trail sign directly opposite (right side).
I feel as though I'm closing in on my objective but there's still a ways to go and a 200+ meter climb and dusk is closing in, so I decide to take the shortest route down towards lake Biwa.
The path downhill is a lot more straightforward and forgiving. You'll cross some old stone bridges traversing lush green scenery with about a dozen waterfalls, albeit most of them manmade.
You'll eventually make it to a cemetery, with Karasaki station, and Lake Biwa, just beyond.
All in all this was a very enjoyable hike, attempting to get as much 'green' as possible door-to-door from Kyoto to Lake Biwa. There are so many trails out there—I can't wait to continue exploring them!
楽しんでください
Waypoints
Left
Straight
Follow old road down
Right
Continue to follow trail run markers
View from NHK relay
Stopped following the trail run markers at this point and chose to follow a trail marked on Google maps.
Right side
"For pedestrians, please see the To-Tokai Nature Trail on the right." NOTE: the white trail run markers suddenly reappear seemingly out of nowhere.
Right
It's getting late and I'm still far from Mt. Hiei. I decide to chance it and follow a path downhill that hopefully will lead me to lake Biwa.
Left
I decide to take the path going down along the river. The right path crossing it appears to lead to another observation deck, according to the sign. Trusting my karma is in good standing, I follow the river along an unmarked yet well-trodden path downwards in hopes that it'll lead me back to civilisation before dusk.
Cross the tracks
I figure it's best to head straight for the JR line since I know that'll take me straight to Kyoto station, so I skip the local train station (Anoo 穴太)
JR Karasaki station
You can catch a train back to Kyoto here via Track 2 for ¥240, leaving approximately every 15 minutes. I figure I still have some time before it's completely dark so I decide to head down to the waterfront, just for fun. Might as well, right?
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