Ouessant hike 23 km

Brisk hike on the great island Ouessant, taking in a large part of the coastline, the main town Lampaul, and a few inland stretches. The hike includes great seascapes, cliffs, lighthouses, churning seas, peculiar rocks, purple heather in August, traditional houses and a windmill, coves and small ports, marshes, a few beaches, seabirds and seals. The hike starts in the harbor of Stiff where all boats from predominantly Le Conquet (see https://pennarbed.fr/horaires-et-tarifs/) arrive, and depart. I did this as a day trip from the mainland, but a few days on the island is even a better idea. The ferry ride itself is already a beautiful excursion if you find a place on deck. You can find something to eat and drink near the harbor and predominantly in Lampaul. Hike on mostly narrow coastal paths, not too difficult, but pay attention and keep your distance to steep cliffs.
Directly after leaving the ferry, head for a steep path/scramble up a small hill giving you a view of the harbor. Then take small paths around the Baie de Poull Ifern to the Vigie and Phare du Stiff. This part of the island was shrouded in mist during the beginning of my trip, but both the watch tower, the lighthouse, and the large Tour du Stiff on the eastern part of Pointe de Bac’haol, are normally very well visible from the harbor and the arriving ferry. From the Phare du Stiff take paths along the Baie d Toull Auroz to the cove Ar Bouyou Glaz (with steep cliffs, I saw seals here). Then walk to the northern Pointe de Cadoran. From here you have a great view across the Cadoran Bay towards Île Keller and Penn ar Ru Meur, and Phare du Créac’h in the distance. You walk along the Cadoran Bay to this Penn ar Ru Meur, a cape just across from Île Keller, on the way passing de Fort du Kernic. The currents in the street between the cape and the island are very strong, and in general the water northwest of the cape is churning, with a lot of waves. You continue along the sea to Porz Kinzy and then on to Yuzin Bay. On this stretch there are a lot of large boulder-like and peculiarly formed rocks. You pass by another bay (Aod Meur) where I observed some more seals and then you take a path inland past marshes to the hamlet Niou. There is a museum here with traditional houses that you could visit or take a look. You then turn back to the coast past the hamlet An Niou Izella, and keep following the coast until the large lighthouse, Phare du Créac’h. On the back towards the coast there is also a museum here on lighthouses and beacons and a semaphore, and also a beautifully wild and rocky coastline. If you want to visit the western point of France and you have the time you go about 2 km further west to Pointe de Pern. However, I took a path to the Baie de Lampaul past Marais du Créac’h, the hamlet Cost ar Run, the Moulin du Run-Glaz and the hamlet Ru Loqueltas. Along the Baie de Lampaul you follow a coastal path to Lampaul, with great views of the bay and the distant Phare de la Jument. In Lampaul you find shops and restaurants, as well as the church Saint-Pol-Aurélien with graveyard. You walk past the harbor and then on to the Croix de Saint-Nicolas with a nice view of the bay. You walk past the beach Plage de Korz and then take an inland route past hamlet Porzh Gwenn to the south coast. Here you have a view of the Passage du Fromveur and the archipelago of Molène (Ponant islands), with its many rocks, beacons and lighthouses. You pass de Pointe de Roc’h C’haro, Mez Meur and several capes and coves on your way to Port d’Arland, a small harbor with a sandy beach near the east point of the island. From the harbor you walk up the road to the hamlet Penn Arlann, and then towards the peninsula bearing the hamlets name. Before you get to the peninsula you take a coastal path with three coves, Porz Ac’hea, Porz an Dour and Porz Ligoudou towards the Route du Stiff. On the way you have a good view of the Port du Stiff and the Tour du Stiff in the background. From the Route du Stiff with the Fontaine du Stiff you walk down to the harbor where you boat back to the mainland awaits you.