Ultra: Papingut from Permet
near Gjinkar, Gjirokastër (Albania)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
Mali i Nemercke is one of the Albanian ultra-prominent mountains, meaning that - theoretically - you have to descend more than 1500 meter in order to climb a mountain that is higher. In other words, its prominence is more than 1500 meter.
The designation of being an Ultra does not necessarily mean that you have to climb 1500 meter or more to reach its summit. There could be roads leading high up. But there is something magical about going it all the way by foot.
In the case of Nemercke Mountain (with its summit Papingut, or Maja e Dritës) it is an obvious thing to do. The western slopes of the Nemercke ridge are somewhat hidden in the Zagoria valley, and the hike is not very difficult (see wikiloc #2797656). But Nemercke's eastern face drops almost vertically into the Vjosa valley. While the summit of Papingut is measured at 2485 meter, the Vjosa runs at 200 meter altitude right below its summit and the amphitheater. It is probably the most alpine and most dramatic view of a mountain to be had in Albania outside the Albanian Alps. With the unavoidable ups and downs of a long hike, this means that one has to climb more than 2300 meter from Gjinkar near Permet in order to reach the summit.
Such elevation gain requires an overnight hike, and we decided to make use of a mule to carry our supplies. Our camp was planned at about 1900 meter, requiring an ascent of 1650 meter on the first day. On the summit day, one still needs to climb close to 700 meter, and about 2350 meter down. Total distance on the second day is about 18.5 kilometer.
The steepest section of the trail is through forest, leading from some grazing areas at 850 meter to about 1550 meter. From here, the gradient is more comfortable, leading into a gap in the Nemercke ridge. This is where we made camp. There is no water here, but there was snow in May.
Once the summit ridge is reached, the gradient is even more easy, though one should beware of the steep drops on the eastern side. In early May, the ridge was still covered in snow, with enormous cornices on the eastern face. Do not be tempted to walk to the edge; keep a respectful distance, even if it limits the views directly down the vertical walls.
Depending on snow conditions, there might be some tricky parts, especially in the morning when the snow is still frozen. If the trip is planned earlier than May, an ice axe would come in handy. In summer, the trail should be more obvious with no real difficulty. Overall, for a trip in May, we rate the trail as difficult, mainly on account of its length, and required orientation skills should the weather turn bad. As long as snow conditions are good and visibility is fine, any difficulty can be avoided.
To the trailhead: Reach Gjinkar village by leaving Permet in the direction of Greece, or Korca. In Badelonje (at a Café called Nemercke), cross the Vjosa River on a steel bridge. Stay on the riverside until a sharp turn to the right leads you to Gjinkar.
Gjinkar is part of Petran commune. Note that the bridge from Petran viallge to Gjinkar is not suitable for motor vehicles. If you have to use public transport, drive to Petran, cross the footbridge and walk from there.
How to get a mule: We were ably assisted by Aleks Dhimitri from Gjinkar village, who cheerfully accompanied us. Our overnight belongings (for 4 persons plus for Aleks) were no problem for his mule Russ. We even were treated to home cooked chicken, byrek, bread and fruit. While Russ waited patiently at our camp, Aleks went with us to the summit of Papingut. He likes to share (in Albanian language) his excellent knowledge of the area, including fauna and flora. We highly recommend to get in touch for this or similar tours; make sure someone in your party speaks Albanian. His phone numbers are 0696640365 and 0682254717.
Very helpful is also the mayor of the commune Petran, Mr. Niko Shupuli, 0684020717. He speaks some English and can help with referrals. Petran commune office is just outside Permet, not in Petran village.
The designation of being an Ultra does not necessarily mean that you have to climb 1500 meter or more to reach its summit. There could be roads leading high up. But there is something magical about going it all the way by foot.
In the case of Nemercke Mountain (with its summit Papingut, or Maja e Dritës) it is an obvious thing to do. The western slopes of the Nemercke ridge are somewhat hidden in the Zagoria valley, and the hike is not very difficult (see wikiloc #2797656). But Nemercke's eastern face drops almost vertically into the Vjosa valley. While the summit of Papingut is measured at 2485 meter, the Vjosa runs at 200 meter altitude right below its summit and the amphitheater. It is probably the most alpine and most dramatic view of a mountain to be had in Albania outside the Albanian Alps. With the unavoidable ups and downs of a long hike, this means that one has to climb more than 2300 meter from Gjinkar near Permet in order to reach the summit.
Such elevation gain requires an overnight hike, and we decided to make use of a mule to carry our supplies. Our camp was planned at about 1900 meter, requiring an ascent of 1650 meter on the first day. On the summit day, one still needs to climb close to 700 meter, and about 2350 meter down. Total distance on the second day is about 18.5 kilometer.
The steepest section of the trail is through forest, leading from some grazing areas at 850 meter to about 1550 meter. From here, the gradient is more comfortable, leading into a gap in the Nemercke ridge. This is where we made camp. There is no water here, but there was snow in May.
Once the summit ridge is reached, the gradient is even more easy, though one should beware of the steep drops on the eastern side. In early May, the ridge was still covered in snow, with enormous cornices on the eastern face. Do not be tempted to walk to the edge; keep a respectful distance, even if it limits the views directly down the vertical walls.
Depending on snow conditions, there might be some tricky parts, especially in the morning when the snow is still frozen. If the trip is planned earlier than May, an ice axe would come in handy. In summer, the trail should be more obvious with no real difficulty. Overall, for a trip in May, we rate the trail as difficult, mainly on account of its length, and required orientation skills should the weather turn bad. As long as snow conditions are good and visibility is fine, any difficulty can be avoided.
To the trailhead: Reach Gjinkar village by leaving Permet in the direction of Greece, or Korca. In Badelonje (at a Café called Nemercke), cross the Vjosa River on a steel bridge. Stay on the riverside until a sharp turn to the right leads you to Gjinkar.
Gjinkar is part of Petran commune. Note that the bridge from Petran viallge to Gjinkar is not suitable for motor vehicles. If you have to use public transport, drive to Petran, cross the footbridge and walk from there.
How to get a mule: We were ably assisted by Aleks Dhimitri from Gjinkar village, who cheerfully accompanied us. Our overnight belongings (for 4 persons plus for Aleks) were no problem for his mule Russ. We even were treated to home cooked chicken, byrek, bread and fruit. While Russ waited patiently at our camp, Aleks went with us to the summit of Papingut. He likes to share (in Albanian language) his excellent knowledge of the area, including fauna and flora. We highly recommend to get in touch for this or similar tours; make sure someone in your party speaks Albanian. His phone numbers are 0696640365 and 0682254717.
Very helpful is also the mayor of the commune Petran, Mr. Niko Shupuli, 0684020717. He speaks some English and can help with referrals. Petran commune office is just outside Permet, not in Petran village.
Waypoints
Waypoint
1,512 ft
01-Stan
07-MAY-14 11:08:45
Waypoint
2,254 ft
02-Fushe - 690 m
07-MAY-14 11:43:37
Fountain
2,490 ft
03-Spring
07-MAY-14 11:59:07
Panorama
4,078 ft
04-Rest and View - 1243 m
07-MAY-14 13:44:12
Lake
5,210 ft
06-Pond - 1603 m
07-MAY-14 15:28:44
Intersection
5,285 ft
07-Fork
07-MAY-14 15:33:51
Panorama
7,654 ft
10-Point 2333 meter
08-MAY-14 11:42:41
Waypoint
0 ft
13-Stan 2065 m
Stan 2065 m
Comments (8)
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I have followed this trail View more
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Marvelous trail. Take care at way-point 07, where you have to leave the main path and follow the GPS co-ordinates for the most efficient ascent. With less or no snow the trail may vary between way-point 07 and 09, but be sure to hit the camp at way-point 08.
What a beautiful path
Your photos are really awesome
Very enjoyable and exciting
I have followed this trail View more
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Easy to follow
Scenery
Difficult
Done it yesterday 👍
Your photos are sublime.
It's a challenge this mountains for me.
I still didn't find my group to try it.
Hey there,
I was thinking of following the trail within the next weeks,
question: do you think its possible within one day as well?
As im a bit confused about the total distance, it says 13km but you mentioned the second day only was already 18 km.
Greetings
Simi
It is 13 or 14 kilometer ONE WAY, so about 26-28 Kilometer for the roundtrip.
The total elevation gain is about 2300 Meter. This would be possible in one day for very strong hikers/climbers, who regularly do this kind of thing. For regular hikers with above average fitness, 1500 Meter elevation gain is already a tough long day.... Occasional hikers usual find an elevation of 1000 Meter more than enough for a day's outing.
Even if you are a very strong, experienced hiker, I would recommend to break it into two days, so you can enjoy it. better, and you have some extra time in case you have to look for the trail....
Thank you so much for your quick answer!!. Hm ill think about it then, ive done 2000 elevation on one day already so the fitness would be there, just dont know how many hours this would take but as u said i guess it qould be rather stressfull. And im kinda really scared of any sheep dogs, specially since ill be hiking on my own and read there are some quite aggressive ones out in this area.
I guess ill see how my other 20 km planned routes will be to better judge how long ill take and if i could make it in one day or not. Im an experienced hiker, but absolutely not an experienced camper, no equipment at all- thats why i can only do 1-day tours 😅
Thanks so much!
Outdoor camping can be an extremely pleasing experience - it increases the immersion in nature, which I think most of us are are looking for.... Have fun and stay safe!