Viniche to Monastery of Matejche via Muratica Peak and Chovec Peak

See https://mymacedoniablog.wordpress.com/ for more info about sightseeing and hiking in Macedonia

The highlight of this 23 km long hike with about 1360 m ascent is the deserted Monastery of Presveta Bogorodica (Holy Mother of God), also known as the Monastery of Matejche after the nearby village of Matejche. The hike starts in the village Viniche, about 15 km from Skopje.

I did this hike in April 2022, making an adapted version of a trail starting at the village Creshevo (https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/creshevo-muratica-manastir-matejche-covek-73912356#) and a trail starting at the village Viniche (https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/v-viniche-bel-kamen-zdravec-bajrak-svinjski-kamen-muratica-v-viniche-92217874#).

There is ample parking space at the baseball court at the beginning of the hike in Viniche.

The first part is uphill, mainly following 4x4 tracks that all seem to be interconnected. I tried to follow the smaller older roads where possible.

After about 5 km and 800 m climbing you reach the Muratica peak. There are ruins of a concrete structure on the peak. Also, the peak was covered in thousands of Lady Bugs!

From there you follow the 4x4 road on the ridge. After about 1.5 km you reach the crossing with the road to the Matejche Monastery. The Monastery of Matejche is located on the Kumanovo side of the Skopsko Crna Gora mountain, so on the other side of Skopje and the village Viniche where this hike started. If you decide not to visit the monastery, this would save you about 6 km and 300 m descending and ascending again. However, I personally think the deserted monastery is the highlight of the hike so if you have the energy to visit, do so!

Some information I found about the Monastery of Matejche:

The construction of the monastery church had started during the time of King Dushan (1308-1355), at an old cult place where the church of the Holy Virgin of Crna Gora had formerly existed (source: A guide to the Macedonian Monasteries by Dimitar Kornakov, 2005). According to Wikipedia, the monastery was built on the ruins of an older, Byzantine Greek church from 1057–59, as evidenced by preserved Greek inscriptions (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matej%C4%8De_Monastery).

There are indeed signs of an older building, because several older stones have been incorporated in the church, clearly visible around both doors. Such re-used building blocks are called “Spolia”. According to Wikipedia spolia are “repurposed building stones for new construction or decorative sculpture reused in new monuments. It is the result of an ancient and widespread practice whereby stone that has been quarried, cut, and used in a built structure is carried away to be used elsewhere. The practice is of particular interest to historians, archaeologists and architectural historians since the gravestones, monuments and architectural fragments of antiquity are frequently found embedded in structures built centuries or millennia later”. I don’t know if in this case the older stones are from a former church at the same location, but it is interesting to see these stones!

After the dead of King Dushan, his wife Elena and son Urosh finished the building and painting (1356/57) of the church. The portraits of Elena and Urosh holding a model of the church are supposedly on the southern wall of the church. The queen Elena is shown wearing a mourning white veil under the crown, indicating that the church has been fresco painted after the death of King Dushan. There also should be a fresco of St Clement of Ohrid. Unfortunately I did not actively look for these frescoes so I missed them.

In the 15th century the monastery was a rich literary center where books were transcribed. In the period from 1570-1573 the monastery has a large estate, however later the monastery church was in ruins for a long time. The monastery church had been rebuilt a number of times, especially the domes and vaults. Irrespective of those restorations, the church gives an imposing and authentic impression even at the present day. In the 18th century the roof was removed by the Ottomans and put on the Eski Mosque in Kumanovo.

For many years the church has been abandoned and unprotected, with uncovered and ruined domes and damaged frescoes. The first recent renovation was in 1926-1934, while during the 1970’s and 80’s a complete restoration of the architecture and frescoes was carried out.

The monastery was occupied and desecrated by Albanian insurgents and used as a base and munition storage during the Insurgency in the Republic of Macedonia (2001). The church exterior was not damaged, but the interior and inventory were stolen or burnt.

All the buildings around the church are destroyed, most of them roofless and completely stripped. What a shame, such a beautiful church with lodging possibilities nearby Skopje would have been a great attraction! I wandered around a bit through these buildings, and visited the other church building with a bell tower. There was a big stone in the church with inscription, maybe a tombstone?

To my surprise I found the church open. It was a very strange experience to be completely alone in this sacred building, which was completely stripped except for the frescoes. It was also a bit spooky because I was quite convinced I was alone at the monastery, but found a burning candle in the church, probably from an earlier visitor. But still, it’s quite a remote place! There were candles in the church, you can leave some money and burn a candle. Take your own lighter because there was none.

After a long lunch break at the monastery, there was 4 km with 450m climbing where you have to climb back to the ridge and up another hill. Quite demanding after the lunch break! From there it is downhill, via the Chovec peak.

Just after the Chovec peak there is an interesting rock formation.

Around the waypoint “Spring 3” there is the option to follow the higher 4x4 or the “forest trail” through the valley. I opted for the forest trail. Although it looked difficult and overgrown at first, this forest trail turned out to be very pleasant and easy, along and across a small river.

At the end you join a 4x4 road that takes you back to Viniche.

A nice hike with the Monastery of Matejche as special addition. It gets 3.5 out of 5 stars from me.

There should be archeological sites near the village Viniche as well, but I did not feel like looking for them anymore after this hike. Maybe next time! (https://mk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%92%D0%B8%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%B5, https://mk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%93%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%88%D1%82%D0%B5_(%D0%92%D0%B8%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%B5) and https://mk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9E%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%B8_(%D0%92%D0%B8%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%B5)