Balaïtous (3144m) via the Grande Diagonale (French normal route)

Start: Refuge de Larribet (2072m)
Distance: 7,95km back and forth
Total ascent and descent: 1183m
Alpine grade: F+
Recommended months: Mid-July to September/October (as long as there's no snow and ice)
Time: 3h45 to the top, allow another 3h15 to get back to refuge de Larribet.
Route: via the 'passage conseillé' and the 'Grande Diagonale'
Recommended gear: helmet

First climbed in 1825 by two carthographers, after searching for a way up for a whole week, and barely making it back down due to a snowstorm, the Balaïtous provides a serious adventure. Peytier and Hossard, the two men who reached the top in 1825, did, however, not take the most straightforward route.
Nowadays, the 'grand diagonale' route is the normal route from France. Once enough snow has melted (usually around the middle of July) this is a challenging but doable peak route that is one or two steps up from easier peak routes like the Grande Fache or the Piméné . There are steep scree parts on the border ridge and a few (very short) exposed passages in between the Grande Diagonale and the peak. On most days there will be other hikers on this route, which can give you an increased feeling of safety.

Route description
0.00 Climb up from Refuge de Larribet (2072m) on a cairned path and make for the Brèche de la Garenère, an obvious gap in the rocks. Follow the trail SW that takes you along the Batcrabère lakes. Make sure to stay on the trail close to the Lac de Batcrabère inférieur and don't be tempted to go higher. Hike past the next lake, Lac de Batcrabère Supérieur and continue to go up SW until the first Micoulaou lake (2302m).
0.55 Now leave the HRP trail (that continues SW to Port de Lavedan) and continue S on the east bank of the first Micoulaou lake. Remember to take enough water here or a litlle further, as these are the last places to fill up. Climb S over rocks to the border ridge, following cairns. Old route descriptions would guide you to Col noir or Breche de Ciseaux now, but both cols have unstable rocks nowadays. So go up to an unnamed col (2594m), commonly know as the 'passage conseillé' because the Larribet warden named it so. This 'passage conseillé' is located in between Col Noir and Brèche des Ciseaux (see photo).
1.45 Hike down steeply on the Spanish side over scree and grass and turn SE as soon as the trail allows. Follow a cairned trail over rocks (and sometimes snow) and climb up rather steeply to reach a giant rock, Rocher du Déjeuner. Here the Abri de Michau (2700m) is located, a natural shelter under rocks (place for 6, extremely basic). Turn left at this shelter and follow cairns that lead E and NE. At first the path is not very clear, but you will still find cairns and higher up the path becomes very clear again. Descend a little when you catch sight of the Grande Diagonale, a diagonal line of rocks that provides a logical way up. Soon you are climbing only on rocks on the Grande Diagonale. The trail is narrow at certain points and there is little room for mistakes, but mostly there is little exposure. As you approach the end of the Grande Diagonale (3066m), you will see red paint flashes on the rocks. Follow these instead of going all the way to the Brèche des Isards. The trail will lead you along two (very short) exposed passages (max II+) where you need to use your hands. After these exposed passages it's a short climb to the peak where you can enjoy the amazing views.
3.45 Balaïtous (3144m)
Go back the same way to Refuge de Larribet