Gwachtenhorn West Grat
near Steingletscher, Canton de Berne (Switzerland)
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Itinerary description
An excellent mountaineering day in difficult, exposed and varying terrain.
This route should not be underestimated unless in perfect summer conditions as the crux just before the ridge is front-pointing on solid ice and needs a minimum of 4 ice screws and a 50m rope would be best. The ridge is exposed but the climbing isn’t too difficult if you are used to the terrain. Initial route finding is difficult but just aim for as high on the ridge as possible as quickly as possible and you’ll be fine.
Decent is fairly straightforward although we had good tracks to follow. The crevasses aren’t too bad but you can see they are getting worse everyday.
This route should not be underestimated unless in perfect summer conditions as the crux just before the ridge is front-pointing on solid ice and needs a minimum of 4 ice screws and a 50m rope would be best. The ridge is exposed but the climbing isn’t too difficult if you are used to the terrain. Initial route finding is difficult but just aim for as high on the ridge as possible as quickly as possible and you’ll be fine.
Decent is fairly straightforward although we had good tracks to follow. The crevasses aren’t too bad but you can see they are getting worse everyday.
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