Komsomol Peak, 4376 m, Tian Shan, Kazakhstan
Trail photos
Author
Trail stats
- Distance
- 3.97 mi
- Elevation gain
- 4,596 ft
- Technical difficulty
- Difficult
- Elevation loss
- 56 ft
- Max elevation
- 14,221 ft
- TrailRank
-
82
4.8
- Min elevation
- 9,704 ft
- Trail type
- One Way
- Time
- 8 hours 53 minutes
- Coordinates
- 1479
- Uploaded
- August 2, 2016
- Recorded
- July 2016
near Gornyy Sadovod, Almaty Oblysy (Kazakhstan)
Viewed 5779 times, downloaded 95 times
Trail photos
Itinerary description
Komsomol (Nursultan) Peak, 4376 m, in the Tian Shan range, is just 25 km off the city of Almaty, in Kazakhstan.
The normal ascent route to Komsomol Peak combines a glacier section with a final rock climbing section. This combination makes it a very complete and enjoyable trail.
Three ski lifts will take you from Medeu ice stadium and car park (1600 m) to Shymbulak ski resort (2300 m) and then to Talgar Pass (3200 m).
There are several possible camp sites in the area, those at 2960 m, 3200 m and 3500 m have been marked as waypoints.
The glacier is climbed all the way up from the point where you leave the moraine, at approximately 3500 m (see waypoint), until the Komsomol Pass, at 4040 m. We didn´t see any major crack in the glacier, but there were, both sides of it, clear signs of avalanches (see pictures). Therefore it´s advisable to keep away from its steep sides.
The final rocky section starts at approximately 4150 m and ends at the Komsomol summit. It is fully equipped with brand new bolts and with some steel steps. Following the route is quite straight forward, except for a couple of times when you will need to look for the next bolt, or at a point where there is an apparent choice between two lines of bolts/steps. Consider that in this part of the trail the accuracy of the GPS device is very limited, as many satellites are covered by the wall.
Both the glacier and the rocky sections are not specially complicated or difficult, but it may be quite tricky to navigate them in bad weather conditions, and late afternoon thunderstorms are usual.
Grade according to Russian difficulty scale : 2a
The normal ascent route to Komsomol Peak combines a glacier section with a final rock climbing section. This combination makes it a very complete and enjoyable trail.
Three ski lifts will take you from Medeu ice stadium and car park (1600 m) to Shymbulak ski resort (2300 m) and then to Talgar Pass (3200 m).
There are several possible camp sites in the area, those at 2960 m, 3200 m and 3500 m have been marked as waypoints.
The glacier is climbed all the way up from the point where you leave the moraine, at approximately 3500 m (see waypoint), until the Komsomol Pass, at 4040 m. We didn´t see any major crack in the glacier, but there were, both sides of it, clear signs of avalanches (see pictures). Therefore it´s advisable to keep away from its steep sides.
The final rocky section starts at approximately 4150 m and ends at the Komsomol summit. It is fully equipped with brand new bolts and with some steel steps. Following the route is quite straight forward, except for a couple of times when you will need to look for the next bolt, or at a point where there is an apparent choice between two lines of bolts/steps. Consider that in this part of the trail the accuracy of the GPS device is very limited, as many satellites are covered by the wall.
Both the glacier and the rocky sections are not specially complicated or difficult, but it may be quite tricky to navigate them in bad weather conditions, and late afternoon thunderstorms are usual.
Grade according to Russian difficulty scale : 2a
Waypoints
Summit
Campsite
Waypoint
Mountain pass
Fountain
0 ft
Lagoon - camp site and fountain 3200 m
Car park
Provisioning
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good alpine route!
Thanks for the rating!
Y como es que te viniste a subirlo? Yo vivo en almaty, y me conozco muy bien la zona
Pues qué suerte tienes de vivir tan cerca de tantos cuatromiles!
what a beautiful route,it is the best trail with wonderful photo
Çok detaylı anlatmışsınız tebrik ederim.
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Easy to follow
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CAT - Ruta feta a l'hivern, el 28-02-2024 amb esquis. Ruta fàcil fins el coll, galciar molt pla i tapat, sense esquerdes. Al coll, el Karlytau Peak, pur gel negre, impossible de fer sense equipament de ferro. Ens decidim cap al Komsomol pujant per una tartera amb neu i després una especie de ferrata amb graons de ferro i cordes fixes (100m de desnivell). Hi ha un pas delicat a la meitat, però es va fent. Per baixar del cim, millor portar un corda i amb dos ràpels (un per una canaleta) estàs a la tartera un altre cop.