The Maragatos Route

From San Esteban de Valdueza (Hotel Valle de Silencio) head towards Ponferrada. Before you reach the centre of Ponferrada turn right onto the LE142 towards Molinaseca.
Stop off at picturesque, medieval Molinaseca with its Roman bridge and old quarter with its typical architecture, known as an “oasis” on the Camino de Santiago with the Rio Meruelo running through.
Continuing on the LE142 ascend to the pretty village of El Acebo and perhaps have a coffee here at Meson El Acebo .From here make a detour to the village of Compludo and San Fructuoso’s (the first Holy man in El Bierzo) forge (dating back to 7th century). The Herreria (forge) de Compludo still functions today.
Return to El Acebo and the LE142 and drive up to abandoned and semi-abandoned villages including haunting Manajarin. Continue on to the Iron Cross at Foncebadon at 1500 metres. Brought here by French pilgrims many moons ago, at its foot a huge pile of granite stones has been laid by pilgrims passing on this route, believing their act of penance would bring good fortune. The tradition continues and so does the pile.
Descend to Castrillo de Polvasares driving through several small villages on route.
Once at Castrillo de Polvasares, park in the public car park at the entrance to the village. (The journey from San Esteban de Valdueza to Castrillo de Polvasares takes 1.22 hrs, not allowing for stops).
Castrillo de Polvasares is an amazingly preserved village, being one of the main villages of the Maragateria. It will transport you back to the times when the muleteers came through with their mule trains on the long and arduos journey to Galicia.
We would recommend having lunch in Castrillo then after lunch (if you can move!), take the LE142 and NV1 to Astorga “la cuidad dormida” (The sleeping city) (7 kms). Park at the public parking Plaza San Roque at the entrance to the town.
Visit the sights of Astorga within the Roman walls – the Gothic cathedral, Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace, the Baroque town hall with its Maragato figures who strike the hour and the Museo Romano and the Museo de Chocolate.
Don’t miss trying the delicious chocolate on sale everywhere in all shapes and sizes and the super light sponge cakes “mantecadas”.
Return to Ponferrada and San Esteban de Valdueza on NV1 via Torre del Bierzo and Bembibre.
Where to eat:
Have lunch here in Castillo de Polvasares - sample the typical dish of the area “Cocido Maragato” . There are several restaurants in the village, but we recommend Restaurante/Hotel “Cuca La Vaina”. They have a very pleasant dining room and a good, varied menu.