Shimbashi, Shiodome and Hamarikyu Gardens
near Uchisaiwaichō, Tokyo (Japan)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
1 Shimbashi Station
I had lunch at Pronto.
2 Shiodome
Visited former Shimbashi Station (reconstructed), part of the building is now a gallery museum on trains.
3 Hamarikyu Gardens
At first glance it looks like a castle. During Edo period the area had the function as exterior defence depot for Edo Castle. By the mid 17th century, however, Tokugawa shoguns no longer had to worry about the enemies from the west. Then this area was used for the falcon hunting grounds for Shogun families and later remodeled as the garden. The military function was put to test only during the latter days of Edo period. During mid 19th century it even had the cannons as the defence against western naval ships. It is exceptionally huge for a Japanese garden with 25 hectres in area. But I highly recommend this garden for Japanese Garden starters because
1. Not as complicated as the rest of Japanese Gardens
Most of the Japanese Gardens are designed with myriad of motifs from ancient Chinese philosophy or popular scenic places in and out of Japan. This garden has less of such styles typical Japanese gardens have. So you can easily enjoy what you see.
2. You can enjoy four different tea houses
Among the five tea houses of the garden four of them are reconstructed and the newest was opened this year.
3. With a number of hills you can grasp how the garden is laid.
4. You can enjoy bird watching
and most of all,
5. You can enjoy the traditional Japanese tea served in the tea house in the middle of the huge pond.
What to do in one hour?
Concentrate on ponded area at the southwestern part of the garden and walk along the coastal path to ferry port and turn left to return to the main gate.
Main Gate---Statue--Pond--Bridge-Tea House-Fujimiyama--Ferry Port--Shrine--Flower Field--300-year Pine--Main Gate
Waypoints
Shimbashi Station
One of the railway stations close to Ginza, Shiodome and Hamarikyu Gardens. 10 minutes walk northeast from Nihonbashi Exit is Hibiya Park. Hamarikyu Gardens is 10 minutes walk from the station only if you know how to get there. Crossing Shiodome area to me is a little bit of an urban barrier. To get to Hamarikyu Gardens, Ginza Exit is often used. On that day, however, I went out from Hibiya Exit to get a glimpse of Locomotive Train at the SL Square. The locomotive train C11 292 used to run on the line near Himeji until it retired in 1972 to be placed at the square of Shinbashi HIbiya Exit to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Shimbashi Station.
Pronto, Shimbashi-ekimae Shop
This cafe chain is run by Pronto Corporation based in Tokyo. Its food franchise has more than 300 shops throughout Japan.
Pronto Cafe
Mon-Sat 7 a.m to 5:30 p.m.
Sun 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Bar
5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
With Pronto Free Wi-fi
https://www.pronto.co.jp/global/
From Ginza Exit to Former Shimbashi Station Site
Shimbashi has changed a lot during the past 20 years. If you revisit Shimbashi for the first time in decades, you will notice a bunch of newly built skyscrapers at the east of Shimbashi Station. Shiodome City Center, 214m, is one of such skyscraper buildings towering near the former Shimbashi Railway Station.
300-year-old Pine
It is a black pine tree said to have been planted in early 18th century when Sixth Shogun Ienobu modified the garden area and built Otemon gate similarly styled with those of Edo castle with a corner watchtower. Photographers prefer taking photos of this grandiose pine from sideways.
Shinsenza Duck-Hunting Pond
It is one of the four remaining duck-hunting ponds in Japan. Hamarikyu Gardens has two of them. Those of Hamarikyu, however, no longer practice traditional duck-hunting. Imperial Household Agency has two duck-hunting ponds one in Chiba and the other in Saitama which still retain the tradition of duck-hunting. These duck-hunting ponds are open mainly to local people several times a year.
Fujimiyama Hill
In Japanese Garden, there are some raised mounds called Tsukiyama (artificial mountain). Hamarikyu Garden has a lot of such hills and you can go up most of them. Fujimiyama is the highest among them and shaped like Mount Fuji. From there you can have the full view of the garden.
Peephole Stand to View Koshindo Duck-Hunting Pond
Unlike the other duck-hunting pond, this pond is home to a lot of birds. I guess this bird sanctuary is a nice birdwatching site in urban Tokyo.
Former Inabu Shrine
Presumed to have been a fox shrine. Inabu is another way of putting Inari Shrine. Although Inari shrine is often associated with foxes because of guardian fox statues at the shrine, the deity is said to be the god of agriculture and prosperity. It is the rare Inari/Inabu shrines with no red Torii gates and fox guardian statues. I guess the shrine had been ruined and much of the shrine properties must have gone either by Great Kanto Earthquake or air raids during the second world war.
Flower field
It used to be the tennis courts. This section is set aside for flower field as canola field in spring and cosmos garden during summer and autumn
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What is Hamarikyu?
There are a lot of nice web sources on this garden thanks to huge popularity.
https://www.gotokyo.org/en/spot/20/
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3025.html
Tripadvisor Hamarikyu Gardens
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1066444-d320445-Reviews-Hama_Rikyu_Gardens-Chuo_Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html
Official panphlet in pdf
http://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/download/pdf/pamphlet_hama.pdf#search='Hamarikyu+Gardens+pdf'
4k Tokyo Walk: Hamarikyu Gardens
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_k3bvh6DTU